Posts Tagged ‘Italy’

Exploring Venice, Italy: Lunch on the Island of Burano at Trattoria da Romano

 

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Charming interior of Trattoria da Romano

If you’re looking for things to do in Venice, Italy taking a day trip to one of the nearby islands is a must. The colorful island of Burano, known for it’s brightly painted houses and fine lace is an excellent choice.

Burano has a few well regarded restaurants, making it a great destination for lunch time excursion.

The only way to reach Burano is by boat. I traveled with friends on a private water taxi arranged by the concierge at Bauer il Palazzo which got us to Burano in about 35 minutes. Water taxi is very fun way to travel!

Time lapse of water taxi ride from Venice to Burano

We had a fabulous lunch at Trattoria da Romano, which came highly recommended to us by an American who is an Italian scholar and part-time resident. Booking reservations ahead of time is a must.

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Canals and colorful buildings of Burano

Trattoria da Romano makes a world famous risotto which won raves from Anthony Bourdain, who featured the restaurant on an episode of No Reservations.

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Smiling water at Trattoria da Romano

Burano has only 2,800 full time residents, most of whom work in the fishing industry. When you come here, you’re coming for seafood! We ate our meal family style, with sardines and branzino for the table.

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My friends contemplating the menu at Trattoria da Romano

The highlight of the meal was the seafood risotto, which will please any foodie. I am not normally a fan of dishes that include squid ink, but the seafood risotto won me over. I’ve been dreaming about it since tasting it for myself.

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Seafood Risotto at Trattoria da Ramano

We ordered both the Bourdain-approved seafood risotto, as well as the traditional risotto. While not much to look at, both were seriously next level. The seafood risotto was black but not overly so. It was so good, we contemplated ordering another round for the table.

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Sardines for lunch at Trattoria da Romano

The spaghetti with clams was also quite flavorful and perfectly al dente.

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Spaghetti with clams

We also heard great things about Gatto Nero Restaurant, but we did not dine there ourselves.

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Picture of Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards on the wall at Trattoria da Romano

Be sure to check out the photographs on the wall near the bathrooms at Trattoria da Romano. They are a fascinating look at the history of this family owned restaurant and it’s guests.

Via San Martino Destra 221, Burano – Venezia
Phone 041 730030
Via Giudecca, 88 – 30142 Burano (Venice Italy)
Tel. +39.041.730120

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Exploring Italy: Venice in the Winter

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A gondolier on the Grande Canal in Venice, Italy

I rang in 2017 in Venice, Italy. I’m a huge fan of Italy and usually game to visit. To me, Venice has always seemed like a gorgeous dreamy fantasyland, so beautiful it is almost surreal.

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Gondoliers on one of the canals in Venice 

Italy is always a popular tourist destination and Venice was once described to me as “the original Vegas.” The city’s unique charms have always been a huge draw for tourists. For this reason, I’ve only visited Venice in the winter. It’s still a popular spot, but you don’t have dodge quite so many selfie stick toting tourists.

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Tourists taking selfies on the Rialto Bridge

This trip I stayed at the fantastic Bauer Il Palazzo, which has a great location about five minutes walk from San Marco Square. The suite was old school stunning and very spacious by Venetian standards, with an exceptionally huge bathroom.

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Stunning interiors of the Aman Venice

While the focus of this trip was simply wandering around the city and dining with friends, I did make a trip to the Aman Venice for lunch. It’s a gorgeous property which boasted the only green space I saw in the city.

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Seeing red in a suite at the Bauer il Palazzo

The Aman has a lovely restaurant and bar, and served a great Aperol spritz. Like all Aman properties, it was zen to the point of feeling like you had the whole place to yourself.

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Museum-like interiors of the Aman Venice

It’s a lovely respite from the throngs of tourists, but a bit more off the beaten path and not the right place if you want a “happening” vibe. But I’ll admit… I was dying to see the rooms!

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Spritz o’clock at the Aman Venice

I had a positive experience at the Bauer il Palazzo and would definitely stay there again. I hope I get the chance since Venice is one of those cities I start planning my next trip to before I’ve even left.

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Sunrise on the Grande Canal

If you’re planning a trip to Venice, check with your hotel about arranging a water taxi to meet you at the airport. Uber is not an option in a a city where gondolas and water taxis are the only way to navigate the canals and water ways.

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Dusk at Basilica de la Salute

 

Bauer Il Palazzo Venice

Address: S. Marco, 1459, 30124 Venezia, Italy
Address: Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte, 1364, Palazzo Papadopoli, 30125 Sestiere San Polo, Venezia VE, Italy

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Why You Should See It: Duomo di Milano Milan, Italy

Editor’s Note: Anastasia Chernykh is the social media manager for My Life’s a Trip. She is also a great photographer and traveler. She recently visited Milan, Italy and I asked her to write a guest post. I hope her excellent guest post inspires you to climb up to the roof of the Duomo.

– Jen Pollack Bianco

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Go up to the roof to realize how huge the cathedral actually is (behold tiny people figures on piazza)

The most impressive thing about the Milan Cathedral is how much time and effort were spent on its construction. Thousands of artists, builders, craftsmen and 78 different architects from all over Europe worked on the project for 500 years!

The result is thoroughly impressive. The fifth-largest Christian church in the world, the Duomo is decorated with over 4000 statues, gargoyles, and figures (it is the most decorated building in the world) and the size of a city block on the inside.

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Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II

The Duomo’s building, topped with a spire statue of the Madonna, was the tallest in Milan for almost two centuries. And its construction even changed the appearance of the city. In order to build this impressive Flamboyant Gothic church, marble was brought from the quarries of Candoglia. The canals built for marble delivery turned Milan into a small Venice, and they still can be seen in the Navigli area of the city.

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Ubiquitous Italian Pigeons on Piazza del Duomo

Unfortunately the kind of marble used on the Duomo is very fragile and needs to be replaced every 50-100 years. This expensive reality has provided continuous work for the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo di Milano, the organization that has been responsible for the cathedral’s construction and maintenance since 1387.

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Interior of Duomo di Milano

The interior of the cathedral is not as impressive as the exterior, but it’s also well worth visiting. Some believers think the most precious thing in cathedral is The Holy Nail relic, with which, per the legend, Christ was crucified. It is placed over the altar and is illuminated with red lightbulb.

There is a sundial on the floor near the main entrance that was once used to regulate clocks in the whole city. It was placed in Milan Duomo by astronomers from the Accademia di Brera.

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Artsy Windows of Duomo are Illuminated from Inside   

The archaeological area displays the remains of the early Christian baptisteries of S. Giovanni alle Fonti and S.Stefano and the remains of the basilica of S. Tecla, which dates back to 355 A.D.

Milan’s magnificent Duomo was the first cathedral in the world to illuminate its windows from within so that, at night, the sacred images can be admired from the outside.

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Sky and Spirals: First Thing You See After Climbing The Dark Spiral Staircase

The roof climb is another visitor’s must-do. The views of the city are incredible and the opportunity to see 135 spires rising above the cathedral, like a marble forest, is worth the climb alone!

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“The Marble Forest”

There is a gilded statue of Madonnina, the Virgin Mary, at the top of the highest spire Milan Cathedral. Traditionally, no building in Milan can be higher than the Madonnina. The Duomo was the tallest building in Milan until the middle of 1950s, when the higher Pirelli Building was built. So to keep up with tradition, a smaller replica of the Madonnina was placed atop of it.

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Gilded Statue of Madonnina as Seen From Cathedral’s Roof

The best way to explore Duomo is a combined Duomo Pass, admission  includes Terraces (by elevator for A pass or on foot for B pass), Duomo, Museum, Church of St.Gottardo in Corte and Archaeological Area.
 The line is smaller near closing time on Sundays, and I’d suggest to purchase B Pass to avoid the queue at the elevator. The climb isn’t that hard (about 200 steps) and there is something utterly satisfying about going all the way up and then being rewarded with a fabulous view!

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 The view of the Milan from the Terraces of Duomo

Duomo di Milano

OPENING HOURS

Every day: 8.00 am – 7.00 pm. Last ticket at 6.00 am. Last admission 6.10 pm

TICKETS

DUOMO PASS Duomo Pass A € 15.00 Duomo Pass B € 11.00

Make sure you’re properly dressed before entering the Duomo (no shorts, no short skirts or dresses, no tank tops).

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A Stay at J.K. Place Roma, Italy

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Living La Dolce Vita in the library at JK Place Roma

The focus of my most recent trip to Italy was exploring the Tuscan wine country, but I wrapped up the trip with a couple of days in Rome. I spent one night at my new favorite hotel in Italy, the JK Place Roma.

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The vibe at JK Place Roma is very Mad Men-chic

My stay at the JK Place Roma was brief, but it didn’t take long for this small, chic urban hotel tucked away on a side street near the Piazza Borghese and within walking distance to the Spanish Steps to win me over. We arrived before our room was ready, and the gracious concierge escorted us to the library and poured us a round of Aperol Spritz while we waited for our room.

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Left: cinema books at the JK Place Roma Right: I was very Happy flipping through Pharrell’s coffee table book 

We had no problem kicking back for a spritz (or three), enjoying the speedy wifi, and flipping through the fab collections of art books in the library. The Library at JK Place properties can put a Taschen book store to shame. They are like a thing.

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Love this mid-century light fixture in the JK Place Cafe

The vibe is  very mid-century glamorous at JK Place properties and you feel like someone’s pampered house guest with impossibly chic friends. Just looking at the interior design was inspiring (and a welcome respite from the August heat).

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Left: The glam cafe at JK Place Roma Right: Sunlight pours into the JK Place Cafe

Breakfast is included in the room rate and while my flight departed too early for me to check out the spread for myself, I have a close friend who also stayed at the hotel a month before me and asked her for her review.

She said, “They had many choices laid out for a buffet (all the usual stuff: baked goods, fruits, juices, yogurts, granolas, cheeses, charcuterie, smoked fish, etc.), plus they were eager to make you anything you wished for in the kitchen. We had a variety of eggs cooked to order. The service was very friendly and attentive.”

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Fruit in my spritz

This is consistent with the JK brand (I’m still blown away when I remember the breakfast spread at the sister property, JK Place Capri).

This time, my stay was courtesy of a free night earned in the LHW Leaders Club Unlimited (my husband is a Leader’s Club Unlimited member, which seems especially useful in Italy).

When our room was ready, the concierge led us there. Even the elevator, which had velvet banquettes built right in, was fabulous. Our room, a JK Classic, was not huge, but it was big enough by Roman standards.

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Rule #1 of visiting Italy: skip the bread. I broke this rule and this bread was delicious.

More notable was the unusually large bathroom which was almost as big as the bedroom, with a huge shower stall, impressive vanity and dressing area.

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Salmon rilette served in the the J.K.  Cafe

A few notes about how they roll at JK Place: bar snacks are generous and tasty. You can make a meal out of the olives alone. There is also one choice that I’m sure was meant to be “quirky” that I find irksome: the music.

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The cozy but chic bedroom had some fabulous photography

While I am a bit of a music snob, I usually enjoy music. I also think it’s fun discovering interesting cover versions of songs (think Kawehi’s Heart Shaped Box).  Not so the soundtrack at J.K. Place. The hotel’s atmosphere music was straight up offensive to my ears.

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The bathroom at JK Place Roma

The playlist that featured almost entirely all female cover songs, like Eliza Lacreda’s version of King of Pain or this awful version of Dani California. My friend who stayed there a month before me is also an audiophile, and she found the music choices amusing. So it’s a personal taste thing. Fortunately, I found Aperol spritz took the edge off my dislike for the soundtrack.

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Aperol spritz with a statue at the JK Place Roma

My biggest problem with JK Place Roma is that I didn’t stay nearly long enough to enjoy it fully. There is so much to see and do in Rome that I didn’t get to sleep in late in the crisp, cool sheets or sample the breakfast buffet for myself. Clearly I need to book another stay at J.K. Place Roma so I can check out the hotel in more detail.

J.K. Place Roma

Via di Monte D’Oro, 30,

00186 Roma, Italy

+39 06 982634

Rates from $609.00 USD

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The 2010 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino Is the Taylor Swift of Wines

 

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Wine tasting in the cellar at Le Chiuse a Montalcino

Much has been written about the recently released 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. Wine critics have raved about it, calling it everything from “The Vintage of a Lifetime” to “the greatest modern vintage of Italy’s most famous wine region.”

I tend to be skeptical of the overhyped, and I’m not enough of oenophile to rave about the 2010’s “fruit forwardness” or how it is a “greatest hits” collection of characteristics of the finest Brunello vintages before it. I also feel obligated to disclose that Sideways is one of my all time favorite films.

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Lorenzo, one of the winemakers at Le Chiuse

During my recent trip to Tuscany I went to a tasting in the cellar at the family run Le Chiuse, where Lorenzo, one of the winemakers, had a lovely way of personifying each vintage. He mentioned that the hot days and cool nights in the vineyard make for excellent sangiovese grapes. I got to know quite a bit about Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s my take on the 2010 Brunello– It’s the Taylor Swift of wine.

Taylor Swift sighting in New York City

TSwizzle- a notable, likeable force who will be even more elegant and interesting in 5-10 years

The winemaker described the 2010 as a “Teenager who leads with their muscles.” All the signs of being important are there, but the vintage has not yet come into it’s “elegance.” That will happen in 10-15 years. In a few years they will be approachable, complex, and in “harmony.” Until then, you’ll keep hearing more from these wines as they are notable and their powerful tanins will allow them to “cellar well.”

Sitting with my friends Noelle and Devony, we mulled this description for a while before declaring the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino the “Taylor Swift of wine.”

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Future Brunello di Montalcino aging in oak barrels at Le Chiuse

All three of us appreciate the importance of Ms. Swift. Her songs sound like money to me. She’s a force that is going no where, and she’s  going to be even more interesting in 5-10 years when she either learns to dance, or at least stops looking like that scene where Bambi tries to walk on ice.

We are all curious to see where Taylor Swift will be in a few years, and the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino should grow into it’s own at the same pace.

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Left: The 2010 Brunello Reserva in the Cellar Right: An Italian wine library in the Le Chiuse Cellar

So what to drink now? We don’t want to drink wine the winemaker describes as “a teenager.”

We asked the Nicolo what to drink now the 2007 Brunello came up. The vintner described it as, “a man in his 40s who has got some game.” Interesting, complex, fully developed. Noelle, Devony and I quickly came to a consensus on how to remember the 2007. It’s the Dave Grohl of Brunello. Everyone of us appreciates a little Grohl in our lives.

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Foo Fighters frontman Dave Grohl has already been inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame once. He’ll get in a second time, too.

We tasted some other memorable wines including the 2013 Rosso di Montalcino, “a strong boy who is appealing now but might not be so interesting in 10 years.” I can’t remember if it was Noelle or Devony that made this connection first and dubbed it the Channing Tatum of  Tuscan wine.

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Some nights you are in the mood for a little Magic Mike. Channing Tatum Pairs nicely with the 2013 Rosso di Montalcino

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino was described to us as “a young father in his 30s. Starting to find harmony.” Hella Ryan Gosling of the wine world!

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If Ryan Gosling were an Italian wine, he’d be a 2009 Brunello di Montalcino

So many wines were being tasted, and Nicolo was such a warm host. He gave us a tour of the vineyards and winery.

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A glass in the Le Chiuse cellar

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The wine library at Le Chiuse

We also had the opportunity to taste the 2009 Riserva. Nicolo, the winemaker, described this one as “a man approaching 40” worth enjoying after 6-7 years.

David Beckham at The Queen's Young Leaders Awards

If Becks were Brunello, he’d be a 2009 Riserva

After some contemplation we decided the 2009 Riserva was the David Beckham of Brunello di Montalcino. He’s fine, but seems slightly less accessible than Grohl, Swift, or Gosling (maybe it’s the accent)?

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Brunello di Montalcino tasting at Le Chiuse

Noelle and I each ordered a case of wine from Le Chiuse after our tasting. Mine arrived the other day.

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The Lineup at Le Chiuse

Now I need to figure out when Magic Mike XXL comes out on iTunes so I can open up a bottle of the Rosso and enjoy a movie night. Because some nights, you need a little Channing Tatum.

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The pool in the vineyard at Le Chiuse

Azienda Agrituristica “LE CHIUSE”
Via delle Fonti, Località Le Chiuse
58014 Manciano (GR)

Telefono +39 0564/625060
Fax +39 0564/620928
Cellulare +39 335/6920736
Email le_chiuse@yahoo.it

 

Le Chiuse’s US importer is:

307 East 53rd Street
New York, NY 10022
Email:
Phone:
1.800.RED.WINE
Fax:

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