Dramatic clouds above an abandoned house in Pullman, Washington
The Palouse Region of Southeast Washington is best known for it’s vibrant colors and vivid landscapes, but some of my favorite images from my recent trip to Southeast Washington work better in black and white.
France photographing her favorite tree near Steptoe Butte
The rolling agricultural landscape of the area can be striking in black and white when it plays up the graphic lines, dramatic clouds, and light of the area.
Treads on a tractor and striped fields
I like how the treads on this tractor mimic the striped fields in the background.
Vintage Truck in Garfield, WA
Editing in black in white can also help when skies are a bit flat, like in the shot below of the crumbling grainery just off the Palouse Scenic Byway.
Crumbling grainery in Pullman
Photo above by France Freeman
My black and white edits were inspired by this shot my friend, photographer France Freeman, took of me in Pullman. Who knew Pullman had street art?
I recently took a road trip from Seattle to the Palouse region of southeast Washington with a photographer friend. The area is agricultural and gorgeous in June, when the fields are growing winter wheat, rapeseed (used for canola oil), and other crops. It’s no surprise, the area is popular with photographers in the Pacific Northwest.
Hyperlapse of the drive down Steptoe Butte
Red barns, abandoned houses, and glorious rural landscapes are a feast for the eyes (and cameras).
Photographers should pack their tripods as well as wide angle and telephoto lenses to make the most of the rural scenery.
Striped fields in the Palouse
Among the don’t miss sights are the view from Steptoe Butte (particularly at sunrise and sunset). To catch the sunrise, we needed to leave our hotel in Pullman at 4 am, but it was worth it.
Power lines in the agricultural land in the Palouse
The colors in the Palouse were almost cartoonish in their vivid hues of green, yellow and blue. Red barns dot the landscape as well.
An abandoned barn
Not all the area is friendly to photographers. While shooting the image above, my friend and I got crop dusted.
Magic hour with tree and wheat in the Palouse
Driving loops around the Palouse Scenic Byway, you can take in quite a lot. Not to be missed are Palouse Falls, Steptoe Butte, and driving the backroads in search of rural gems like red barns, abandoned houses (more on the zombie houses in a future post), and some magnificent trees.
Shaft of sunlight through the wheat
Colfax and Pullman are the best places to stay if you’re interested in exploring the Palouse region. Pullman has more dining options since it’s the home to Washington State University.
The view from Steptoe Butte
The Palouse region extends to Moscow, Idaho although you would not know it from the boundaries of the maps.
Rolling Hills of Palouse and windmills seen from Steptoe Butte
Chef Blaine Wetzel has put The Willows Inn on Lummi Island on the Pacific Northwest’s culinary map. Wetzel, a native of Washington state, has an impressive number of awards to his name considering he’s barely 30. He was named Food & Wine’s Best New Chef in 2012, and won the James Beard award for Best Rising Chef in 2014 and Best Chef Northwest in 2015.
The lobby at the Willows Inn
Chef Wetzel’s tasting menu, Lummi Island in 21 Bites, is known for being almost entirely local. It’s also one of the toughest reservations to get in the Pacific Northwest. The Willows Inn seats only 26 and does one sitting per at 6:30 pm. The hotel is closed for a few months in the winter, so getting a reservation during the prime summer season can be challenging. I couldn’t make it happen last summer but got a reservation for June 2016.
The cottage at the Willows Inn
Known for it’s super locavore focus, almost everything on the menu is farmed, foraged or raised on or near tiny Lummi Island’s nine square miles.
Charming details at the 100 year old Willows Inn
The Willows Inn even offers guests tours of the local farm where most of their produce is grown, making it an intriguing foodie destination in the San Juan Islands.
Craftsman charm at the Willows Inn
Lummi Island is reached by a 10 minute ferry ride from Bremerton. With a population of less than 1,000 residents, little Lummi Island is punching way above it’s weight class in fine dining.
Pacific Northwest charm at the bar
The evening started with cocktails around 5:30. I had the Pineapple Weed Fizz ($14), made with with pineapple weed gin, egg white and chamomile bitters, which was refreshing in the hot weather and inspired. I liked the lack of formality in the service. It was top notch, but relaxed.
Mason jars on display in the bar
The meal started with small bites in the bar. First up was a crispy crepe with golden char roe. It was beautiful.
Left: Flowers and candlelight right: cocktails with fresh garnishes
In honor of National Donut Day, intriguing smoked cod doughnuts were served next. The third course was a standout for me– Kale leaves with black truffles. Next were small bites of roasted sunflower root and green rhubarb.
Willows Inn smokehouse action video
At this point we left the bar and sat at our table, where we were served native oysters in a juice of watercress followed by lightly cured rockfish in a broth of bones.
roasted sunflower root
The vivid hues of the turnip stems with caramelized razor clams were followed by a Lummi Island “tostada” made with wild herbs served on crispy mustard greens. It was colorful crunchy goodness.
Kale leaves with black truffles
Stewed porcini mushrooms were served next and, for me, they were the standout course of the evening with their delicate texture and savory umami goodness.
Scenes from a tasting menu
Dungeness crab served in a puree of pine nuts came next. This delicate yet satisfying dish was followed by a rare seasonal treat of local salmonberries served with petals of Nootka roses. Not overly sweet, the berries were very flavorful and bursting with color. It is a memorable dish.
Stewed porcini mushroooms
Pacific Northwest staples of smoked sockeye salmon and a seared skirt of razor clam came next. I was starting to lose steam by the time the halibut and lovage arrived.
Left: Turnip stems with caramelized razor clams Right: Native oysters in a juice of watercress
I found some more room for the wheat bread with pan drippings, but couldn’t muster the strength for the aged leg of venison, which was the last of the savory courses. Epic meals can be too much for me.
2010 Golden Grape Semillon was part of the wine pairing
The toasted birch branches (served as a tea) were much appreciated with it’s earthy heat acting as a bit of digestive before the dessert courses.
Seared skirt of razor clam
While I tend to favor savory over sweet, the desserts at the Willows Inn were exceptional and light. Grilled strawberries were served with fresh chamomile in a pleasing combination.
Candied green pine came next, followed by pumpkin seed fudge which was shockingly light and flavorful. I almost asked for seconds.
Crispy crepe and golden char roe
Wine pairings can be ordered with dinner for $90, or a juice pairing for $40.
Native oysters in a juice of watercress
The wine pairing focused on the Pacific Northwest and skewed towards the whites, which was appropriate for the seafood-centric menu. I must confess I am not a white wine lover. While I normally adore wines from Oregon and Washington, I thought the wine pairing was the meal’s one misstep. It was also a bit surprising since the cocktails were so good.
Left: smoked cod donuts Right: Dungeness crab in a puree of pine nuts
I spent part of last week exploring New Mexico. It was the first time I visited the funky tiny hamlet of Truth or Consequences in the southwestern part of the state.
Also known as T or C, the town has a population of less than 7,000 people. They are a friendly and eclectic bunch. Truth or Consequences feels like a place where you wind up, not a place one aspires to live. Some residents have settled here for the town’s famous natural hot springs. There is a large veteran’s home. Ponytailed hippies came here in the 60s and never left.
Palm tree and sunshine in New Mexico
I overheard a local saying, “there are four doctors in town who will write you a medical marijuana prescription, and two doctors for everything else.”
Tiny living in Truth or Consequences
It’s an eccentric spot in the Southwest and I enjoyed exploring it. While T or C’s main drag has limited appeal there is some interesting street art. The nearby Elephant Butte Dam and reservoir recreation area is rather beautiful, and turning 100 years old this year.
Cactus flowers in bloom
Truth or Consequences has a bit of the artistic spirit of Marfa, Texas without the hipster vibe. The residents are very friendly and open. Some of the small businesses are firmly set in a time warp.
Another view of the Elephant Butte Dam and Powerplant
New Mexico also has insanely beautiful skies. The puffy clouds are almost characters in the critically adored television series Breaking Bad and it’s current prequel, Better Call Saul.
Moody sunset clouds above the Elephant Butte Dam
It rained both nights I spent in Truth or Consequences, and the dramatic clouds added to the impressive views of the Elephant Butte Dam and recreation area.
Left: The Resevoir Right: Magic hour clouds above the powerplant
Truth or Consequences is worth a stop for anyone driving from El Paso, Texas or Las Cruces, New Mexico to the Albuquerque. It’s a eccentric Southwestern spot that feels like a setting from a film by Quentin Tarantino or Robert Rodriguez.
Plants above the Elephant Butte Dam and Powerplant
It’s a bit counter-culture and nice contrast to the upscale artsy enclave of Santa Fe, and the people could not be nicer.
Vintage sign goodness at Los Arcos
Los Arcos Steak and Lobster is a favorite dinner spot.